Shanghai Breakfast: What to Eat Before 9 a.m.

If you have a free morning in Shanghai, save it for breakfast. A cup of warm soy milk, a youtiao still crisp from the fryer, and a few pan-fried buns are a good reason to leave the hotel early.

Aim for around 7 a.m. Some stalls sell out by 8 or 9, so it’s easier to plan breakfast before sightseeing than to squeeze it in afterward.

The four breakfast classics

These four are often grouped together as sì dà jīn gāng (四大金刚). You’ll see them sold side by side at morning stalls and small breakfast shops.

• Youtiao (油条 yóu tiáo): a long fried dough stick, usually around ¥3. Good on its own while it’s crisp, and even better dipped in warm soy milk.
• Sesame flatbread (大饼 dà bǐng): choose a savory one with scallions or a slightly sweet version. Around ¥3.
• Soy milk (豆浆 dòu jiāng): try the savory version, 咸豆浆, if you’re curious. Dried shrimp, pickles, and vinegar turn it into something closer to a light soup, with soft curds forming in the bowl. It’s the version I like to order.
• Sticky rice roll (粢饭团 cī fàn tuán): warm sticky rice wrapped around youtiao. Around ¥6, made to order, and easy to take with you as you walk.

You can also wrap the youtiao in the flatbread. It’s a familiar breakfast combination, with soft bread on the outside and crisp dough in the middle.

A morning walk through Huangpu

Start on Yunnan South Road around 7 a.m. Have a look along the street before ordering so you can see what’s fresh and what catches your eye.

Walk north toward People’s Square for shengjian bao. A plate of pan-fried pork buns is a more filling stop, so leave a little room or share a portion.

Finish around Huanghe Road. Try to get there before 9 a.m., when some breakfast stalls start packing up or getting ready for lunch.

Allow about an hour and a half and budget roughly ¥50, depending on how much you order. There’s no need to try everything in one sitting.

A few things that make ordering easier

Bring small bills. Set up mobile payment beforehand if you plan to use it, but keep some cash as a backup. It’s easier than sorting out an app while you’re waiting at the counter.

Pointing is fine. English menus aren’t common at small stalls, but you can usually point to the food or show the Chinese names above.

Order before you sit down. At many stalls, you pay first at one window and collect your food at another. If you’re given a paper ticket, hand it to the person serving the food rather than waiting for table service.